TL;DR:
- Plans by Levi’s to use AI-generated virtual clothing models have sparked a backlash in the fashion industry.
- Critics accuse Levi’s of trying to save costs and replace professional models.
- Levi’s denies intending to replace live models and states that AI models will supplement their photoshoots.
- Concerns about technology displacing human labor and models’ images being used without permission have been raised.
- Model Alliance founder Sara Ziff advocates for the Fashion Workers Act to ensure disclosure and fair compensation.
- Current laws offer limited labor protections for models, who are often classified as independent contractors.
- AI models have become so realistic that consumers struggle to differentiate them from real humans.
- Influencer Ashley France calls for regulations similar to those for advertisements and photoshopped images.
Main AI News:
Levi’s recent announcement of its plans to experiment with virtual clothing models created by artificial intelligence (AI) has ignited a storm of criticism within the industry. While diversity concerns took center stage, the retailer’s proposal also unearthed deep-seated anxieties that have long plagued the fashion world.
Detractors of Levi Strauss & Co.’s collaboration with AI design firm Lalaland.ai accuse the retailer of using this initiative as a cost-effective solution to address representation issues, potentially jeopardizing the livelihoods of professional models in the process.
Professor Shawn Grain Carter, an expert in fashion business management at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, highlighted the financial motivations behind Levi’s decision, stating, “When you have to hire a model, book an agency, have a stylist, do the makeup, feed them on set — all that costs money. Let’s make no mistake about it. Levi’s is doing this because this saves them money.”
Levi’s spokesperson rebutted these claims, emphasizing in a statement that the AI models were intended to complement rather than replace photoshoots with live models. However, Lalaland.ai has yet to comment on the matter.
Concerns about technology replacing human labor are not confined to the fashion industry and have been a topic of discussion for some time. Nevertheless, as AI’s presence in the fashion space expands, certain industry professionals are growing increasingly apprehensive.
Yanii Gough, a model and the founder of Yanii Models, which represents over 100 models, noted that many of them are eager to regain a sense of stability as the industry recovers from the disruptions caused by the pandemic. With the proliferation of AI modeling firms, clients can now simply relay their preferences via email to an agency, and the appropriate model will be promptly found for their needs, be it for photoshoots or fittings.
Instances similar to Gough’s concerns have been observed in the past. In 2017, Shudu touted as the world’s first digital supermodel, garnered attention for securing high-profile contracts with renowned brands like BMW and Louis Vuitton. Shudu, designed as a Black woman, also drew criticism directed at The Diigitals, the AI modeling agency behind her creation, and its founder, Cameron-James Wilson, who is white.
Presently, brands and advertisers have an ever-expanding array of options to leverage AI in their marketing and sales endeavors. Alongside Lalaland.ai, Deep Agency, a nascent AI startup, provides users with the ability to orchestrate virtual photoshoots using either synthetic models or AI renditions of real individuals.
Gough further expressed concerns about the unauthorized usage of models’ images through AI, a sentiment echoed by Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit advocacy group. Ziff revealed that fit models, who traditionally aid designers and manufacturers by trying on clothes to assess sizing and silhouettes, are increasingly reaching out to her organization, fearing they may be replaced by AI body scans.
As the fashion industry grapples with the inevitable integration of AI, the ramifications on labor, consent, and representation continue to be subjects of intense debate and scrutiny. Industry stakeholders must navigate these issues conscientiously to ensure a sustainable and equitable future for all involved.
Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, has shed light on a disconcerting issue faced by models in the industry. Some models have expressed discontent over companies hiring them for body scans, which are then used as the foundation for product development without their knowledge or fair compensation.
Ziff explained that companies are able to design clothes virtually using scanned models’ bodies instead of physically booking them for the job. To protect the anonymity of those raising complaints, Ziff refrained from providing specific examples, highlighting the Model Alliance’s policy of maintaining an anonymous hotline for industry workers.
Fashion brands have staunchly defended their AI initiatives as supplementary enhancements that benefit shoppers. Similarly, AI design studios and agencies operating in the fashion space present their efforts as supplemental, aimed at increasing representation sustainably. Lalaland, for instance, has explicitly stated that the company was established with the objective of promoting inclusivity in fashion.
Ziff pointed out that agents and management companies responsible for booking models for the aforementioned jobs are not legally obligated to inform models that their body scans may be used for additional projects without compensation. In support of fair practices, Ziff is advocating for the proposed Fashion Workers Act in New York, which would mandate agencies to provide comprehensive disclosure of the scope of work and payment details.
The current legal framework surrounding models’ rights to form unions leaves room for ambiguity, resulting in limited labor protections. As most models are classified as independent contractors, they face heightened risks of legal action or retaliation from their agencies. Other creative professionals, such as the Writers Guild of America, possess the authority to propose industry standards and best practices for AI usage in their respective fields.
Conlcusion:
The plans by Levi’s to explore the use of AI-generated virtual clothing models and the ensuing backlash highlight the complex dynamics at play in the fashion market. The industry is grappling with the potential cost-saving benefits of AI while also addressing concerns about representation, labor rights, and fair compensation for models.
As AI technology continues to advance and AI models become increasingly indistinguishable from real humans, regulations and industry standards will be crucial to ensure transparency, protect workers’ rights, and maintain consumer trust. The market will need to navigate these challenges carefully to strike a balance between leveraging AI’s potential and upholding ethical practices that promote diversity, fairness, and sustainability in the fashion industry.
